Transport in Nigeria

A specific section on transport in Nigeria is worth a mention. They are one of the most exhilarating aspects of Nigeria and the main cause of concern for visitors (much more than crime).

Travelling by road

The road network between the major cities and within the centre of the main cities is pretty good, but if you go even slightly off a main route and it is pot-hole heaven. Pot holes are so cavernous that after the rains birds come to sip from the newly formed fresh pools in the road.

The vehicles on the road are worth a special mention. There are some spectacularly well-built 1990’s and 1980’s cars on the road of Nigeria, probably topping 3-400,000 miles. Old Mercedes Benzes, quality Hondas and Toyotas, aging and bashed-up Peugeots support the adage “they don’t make ‘em like they used to”.

These gloriously noisy (as much from the shaky interior parts as the engines) are kept alive by ingenious engineers, building parts with their backroom lathes, whose mobile number you see graffitied on the walls near parking spots in the big cities.

Okada or Achabas

These are the notorious motorcycle taxis, the Jincheng mentioned in a previous post that can take a whole family from A to B. Warned against taking these, I was corralled into it by the guys from the “Disability and You” tour. Two of us would squeeze on to these flimsy looking Chinese mass-produced motorcycles and swerve dramatically through the “go-slow” (Nigerian slang for traffic).

Initially these were nerve-racking, with trucks steaming past inches away from your jutting knee, but after a while I got used to these – not necessarily the best thing for my welfare.

At times it was great fun taking these motorbikes. A particular time, after a few of beers and during half-time of Tottenham vs Fulham, I went on an okada-suya-run – suya is the barbequed meat so tasty with beer. Driving these bikes at night is particularly dangerous, but when a little confident with alcohol, the wind-in-hair-feeling and convenience of it all is a delight.

Taxi (share and drop)

Intercity transport is made up of decrepit minivans and share-taxis. The latter costs more, but are quicker, safer (relatively) and you don't have to wait as long for them to go. All intercity transport, unless you hire the car yourself (known as a drop taxi), are go-when-ready - i.e. when the car or bus is full. This can be an excruciatingly long process. However, the motor parks, where you get these intercity vehicles, are very well organised and safe motor parks, if filthy.

They are so safe and organised, that I would leave my luggage in the back of the fully open car, give my name and mobile number to the motor park official and go off for a wander. If the car becomes full while I was wandering around, the attendant would give me a call saying the car is ready. Very civilised.

Flying

This seemed to be the only reliable mode of transport. Although, having spoken to friends it seems that I was lucky not to have a Nigerian minister hijack the plane for his purposes and delay the flight for days!

Flying is easy, quick and quite cheap. Getting a plane simply requires going to the airport an hour before the flight (knowing what time is the flight, is a complex thing, as there doesn't seem to be a public timetable of the flights), buy your ticket and walk on to the plane.

Just before you climb the stairs into the small plane, an attendant takes your large luggage to store in the carrier. It is very easy, and I was never delayed by more than 30 minutes.